I just got back from a whirlwind trip to Basque Country that completely opened my eyes to a region I knew very little about. First on our itinerary was Bilbao, located in the north-central part of Spain. It’s actually the largest city in Basque Country. While Spanish can be found almost everywhere, you’re likely to hear people speaking Basque (Euskera!), which is immensely meaningful to their deep-rooted cultural identity.
Truly, I’m not sure I’ve ever been to a place where the identity of the community is stronger than in Basque Country.
If you’re planning a trip to Bilbao, you should expect to get lost in the maze-like streets of Casco Viejo (the old quarter), indulge in fresh seafood and pintxos, and leave plenty of time to explore the city’s art scene, including the architectural masterpiece, the Guggenheim.
Where We Stayed
Things I liked about the hotel:
- Breakfast buffet was really well done. There were a lot of options and, for the most part, everything was hot and fresh.
- Shower had excellent water pressure.
- Comfortable sheets (though I felt the mattress was a bit too firm).
Areas for improvement:
- No full-length mirror (though my room seemed to be the only one of our 6 room block without one).
- Each room had a slightly different bathroom layout, and mine included a tiny shower stall that leaked water out onto the floor. Not ideal, and very cramped.
- Blow-dryer kept shorting out repeatedly.
- Hate to say it, but the staff at the front desk didn’t seem enthused about helping us much.
Would I stay here again? No, I’d likely go somewhere else. For me personally, I’d rather stay in the more modern section of Bilbao, which is within walking distance to the restaurants I enjoyed most.
Must See Attractions
- Guggenheim: A stunning museum of modern and contemporary art, designed by famed architect Frank Gehry. Its swirling titanium exterior is a landmark (it’s meant to resemble a ship), and it houses both Spanish and international works.
- Azkuna Zentroa: Housed in a revitalized historic building, is Bilbao’s buzzing cultural center offering cinemas, a library, fitness areas, and even art exhibitions, all under one roof. There’s a cute little cocktail / wine bar up at the top with fantastic fried onions!
- Arxtanda Funincular: This railway whisks you up Mount Artxanda for panoramic city views, parks, and even a restaurant, the latter of which had my favorite dessert of the trip, with layers of flaky, buttery puff pastry and coffee cream (called conde).
- Walk through Casco Viejo (Old Town): Casco Viejo is its charming Old Town, a maze of narrow streets lined with pintxo bars, traditional shops, and the Santiago Cathedral.
- La Ribera Market: La Ribera Market is a must-visit in Bilbao. This vast, Art Deco gem boasts fresh produce from the region, including seafood, meats, and vegetables, all under a stunning, light-filled roof. Be sure to grab a few pintxos in the food hall on the upper floor!
Ochenta Grados
Restaurant: Ochenta Grados (80 Degrees)
Location: Heros Kalea, 20, 48009 Bilbao
Accepts reservations: Yes
Meal: Dinner
Recommended dishes: false risotto with mushrooms, foie gras with dried strawberries, and the sweet rib sandwich. But honestly, we loved everything we ate here!
Would I go back? Yes
Side note: this was my favorite restaurant in Bilbao!
Restaurante Mina
Restaurant: Mina
Location: Marzana Pier, 48003 Bilbao
Accepts reservations: Yes
Meal: Dinner
Recommended dishes: It’s a tasting menu, so you get what you get — but there were a number of standout dishes. My favorite was a French onion soup-inspired dish (top left corner below).
Would I go back? No; with all of the delicious, one-bite pintxos available in the area, many of which are unbelievably flavor-packed, I think I’d rather stick to small plates than this lengthy, multi-course meal.
Perita
Restaurant: Perita
Location: Diputación 1, 48003 Bilbao
Accepts reservations: No
Meal: Lunch
Recommended dishes: They literally only serve shrimp here, but it’s the best shrimp I’ve ever had in my life. Be prepared to order multiple servings and eat with your hands! The shrimp is lightly cooked and has a natural sweet flavor that is just unparalleled.
Would I go back? Yes, in a heartbeat!
Restaurante Txirene
Restaurant: Restaurante Txirene
Location: Poza Lizentziatuaren Kalea, 26, 48009 Bilbao
Accepts reservations: Yes
Meal: Dinner
Recommended dishes: Note that everything here is served family-style, so the portions are huge! Start with a big plate of Jamon Iberico, one of the best plates of food on the whole trip. Other standout favorites: thinly sliced steak, black rice with garlic aioli, and fried prawns with trio of dipping sauces.
Would I go back? Yes; just be sure to come with a crowd because the portions are extremely big.
The staff here was so friendly and didn’t seem to mind that we were on the loud side, having the best night eating, drinking, and laughing nonstop. We actually lingered for hours and were the last to leave for the night.
The Best Dessert
I know I’m going to receive some pushback from this, because yes I love Basque cheesecake, but my favorite dessert from the entire trip was found at an unassuming restaurant at the top of the Arxtanda Funincular. Head to Restaurante el Txakoli and ask for a conde… or maybe ask for pantxineta.
Why the name discrepancy? In Bilbao, our waiter referred to it as pantxineta, but in San Sebastián it was called conde.
Here’s what you need to know: it’s layers of buttery, delicate puff pastry filled with light-as-air coffee cream and it is so so so delicious!
This is not a fully inclusive list of every little thing we ate, as there were many pintxos consumed along the way. You can walk into any pintxos bar or restaurant, look at their display of small plates on hand, and pick and choose what looks best to you.
One misconception I had was assuming that pintxos would be one bite, and that’s just not true. They’re all quite large, so if you’re with friends, plan to share so you can try more things.
On the last night of our trip (before flying home), we came back to Bilbao and ate at El Globo, recommended by many. This was one of the least enjoyable meals of the trip — I’d skip this one.
Thoughts on Bilbao
Bilbao is surprisingly large — the newer section feels modern and very much like (a cleaner) NYC, while the old quarter is uniquely charming and historic. It’s a beautiful blend of old and new, in a culturally diverse town with plenty of lush green spaces, a thriving arts scene, and a gorgeous scenic riverfront.
Is Bilbao family-friendly? Absolutely! As much as any city is. The problem for me is the 2 of my 3 children are not adventurous eaters and would likely be surviving off of bread, steak, and dessert alone. If your kids are more like my daughter and willing to try new things, I would 100% recommend coming with your children.
How’s public transportation? The buses were immaculate! In general, the town is very clean (and very safe). We didn’t ride on the metro, so I can’t speak to that, but it does exist. And side note: while you can call for an Uber in Bilbao, you should expect a wait of 15-20 minutes. Instead, grab a taxi from a taxi stand or, better yet, ask your hotel or restaurant to call one for you. These arrive in just minutes and are very safe and comfortable.
The entire trip was planned with the help of my friend Varsha. If you’re looking for assistance in planning your next trip to Spain — or anywhere! — feel free to send her a message. From setting up our tour guides to ensuring transfers from city to city, she handles it all.
Bilbao, you are charming and alluring and full of delicious food. I assure you, I’ll be back!
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